Once upon a time, instead of tending vines, young Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule had their hands deep in dough. They were pizza makers, and owned a renowned pizzaria. But the call of the vines became too strong to ignore, so they took on a plot of Garganega in Gambellara. Today, they have become renowned for their natural wines and for their take on Col Fondo, Garg'n'Go.
“The vine would be healthy if it wasn’t for human intervention, but we create vineyards, and our way of tending vines will always somehow weaken the vine... whether that’s the tractor that might compact the soil, or by pruning, when we inhibit the plant’s own plumbing system. I’ll never reach the end point, I’ll keep trying to improve for the rest of my life.”
People: The Maule family
Place: Gambellara, Veneto, Italy
Varieties: Garganega, Merlot, Tocai Rosso & Cabernet Sauvignon
Farming: Organic with elements of biodynamics
Wines: Click here
Did You Know? When you think of Verona, your mind might wander to the wines of Valpolicella, Amarone country, where clay and limestone is dominant. Here, however, it's basalt, an extrusive igneous rock. This means that it formed from lava that was ejected from below ground, via volcanic activity. Sure enough, an extinct volcano lies nearby, in the town of Brenton. It has not erupted for circa 45 million years. It is thanks to this volcano that we have these soils of Gambellara and its neighbour, Soave.
The Maule Version of Col Fondo
Although you may think it's a pét-nat, the Garg 'n' Go cuvée is actually made according to a variant of the "Col Fondo" method (this is how Prosecco was made traditionally, before industrialisation).
The family dries some Garganega grapes to achieve highly concentrated natural grape sugars. 5% of this super sweet juice is added to to 95% still wine in stainless steel, which restarts fermentation and creates bubbles. Left unfined and unfiltered, the wine then finishes fermenting in bottle.