Peixes is the latest Spanish low intervention wine project to come from the dynamic duo Jesús Olivares and Curro Bareño (two-thirds of the renowned Fedellos do Couto trio). They explore, save and defend the old and semi-abandoned vines of the Viana do Bolo region and make striking wines from indigenous varieties.
"...and that’s how Peixes started, like a snowball that Jesús kicked which couldn’t be stopped. Jesús had the snowball, he was running down a hill, and the ball was getting bigger and bigger. Finally, I got on top of the ball too."
People: Jesús Olivares and Curro Bareño
Place: Viana do Bolo, Galicia, Spain
Varieties: Mencía, Mouranton, Grao Negro, Garnacha Tintorera, Bastardo, Godello, Doña Blanca and Palomino
Farming: Organic with elements of biodynamics
Wines: Click here
Did You Know? Many farmers had already abandoned their land in this area due to the difficulty of having to maintain the vineyards by hand. At such a steep incline, it’s impossible to use a tractor. As such, Peixes is as much a conservation project as it is a winemaking project.
As much as they’re proud to be two free-spirited souls out on their own, Curro mentions that they’re becoming slightly overwhelmed. This means it’s tricky for them to embark upon visions that have been on their minds for a while, such as biodynamics.
“We need to assess so many things with regards to agriculture first. Then we will move onto biodynamics. We did a course with a French professor, Pierre Masson, many years ago El Bierzo.” He told us, “don’t make the mistake of thinking that going biodynamic will solve your problems. It’s 90% agriculture and 10% biodynamics.’”
That said, they have taken many ideas of biodynamics already and applied them to their treatments. In addition to the organic sprays of copper and sulphur, they use horsetail, comfrey, yarrow, propolis and milk powder - the latter of which they discovered via the Welsh biodynamic winery, Ancre Hill.