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Two Germans with two decades' experience in Burgundy have moved to Baden, to turn their sights to what their home country is capable of. Through organic and biodynamic methods they're regenerating their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling & Chasselas vineyards. These are artisan wine icons of the future.

"You constantly reflect on how you can create the wines you like to drink. It’s a permanent state of adaptation, according to what you’ve learnt and seen. If you stop, you’re dead!"

People:  Alexander Götze and Christoph Wolber

Place:  Baden, Germany

Varieties:  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Riesling and Gutedel (Chasselas)

Hectares:  3

Farming:  Organic with elements of biodynamics

Wines: Click here

Did You Know? Between them, this duo has experience at Pierre Morey, Domaine de Montille, Bernhard Van Berg, Leflaive, Domaine de la Vougeraie and Comte Armand

Although the two have almost two decades’ joint experience working with some of the top Burgundy domaines, they remain ever-humble. Alex says,

“You’re always adapting and learning. What we learnt in Burgundy isn’t necessarily the truth here in Baden. Of course you begin with what you know—what you’ve learnt—but as you get to know your vineyards and the climate better, you begin to adapt little by little. Since day one it’s been clear to us we want to work organically and with as few products as possible in the cellar; that won’t change. Rather it’s the little details that change; whether with pruning techniques or cellar adjustments.” 

One of the key differentiators in Baden is the different type of Pinot Noir found in the region. While genetically it’s the same as the Pinot in Burgundy, often the German clones have very different properties. As they were typically planted with quantity in mind, they can be very productive, with giant clusters. As such, the stems are often also very big, and hence very green at harvest time. This means these types of Pinot aren’t ideal for whole cluster fermentation; so depending on the vineyard and the type of Pinot found there, they make the decision whether to destem or use the whole bunch method. 

"Even if we had the money to buy a new press, we wouldn’t. It’s a mechanical press with chains in it, which kind of grinds the skins and stems. It means you get a very...

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