Here in Mittelbergheim, Alsace – just a dozen miles from the German border – Lucas Rieffel is farming and making wines of the future. These are not your typical charming-but-old-school Alsatian wines; rather they are emotive, jolting wines that show an entirely new face of Alsace. It’s like seeing an old friend with an entirely new look. Sylvaner – far too often the underdog – takes its deserved place as Ace of Spades in this hand.
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