A Wine That
is the equivalent of a long novel. It will capture your imagination and even allow you to delve out of this world, just for a moment. Freude means Joy in German, and opening a bottle of this skin contact giant brings a big smile to our faces every time. Ewald infuses the skins with the juice for almost a year in some vintages, allowing the wine to take on layers upon layers of flavour.
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- Winemaker: Werlitsch
Where & How?
Ewald makes two skin-fermented white wines from the Werlitsch vineyards. Glück is destemmed and fermented in open cask for between two to three weeks, and aged in two-year-old barrels. Freude is macerated with whole bunches: 100% in a good year, or 50-70% in a tough year, for much longer periods (sometimes a year!) He says,
“The goal was always to play with the tannic structure in the wines.” Initially, he began working with Georgian qvevris for these wines, and as they were raised in clay, he and his friend, Sepp Muster, had the idea of finding ceramic bottles for them. He says, “As they were made in clay, he wanted them to stay in clay. That was the idea, but we also realised that the clay bottles influence the wines in a positive way.”
Ewald Tscheppe of Werlitsch is a winemaker who ditched the security of producing simple, easy-to-sell, “drink now, not for ageing” Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. Inspired by the likes of Marcel Deiss, Gravner and Radikon, Ewald set out to see what his Styrian soils might be able to produce if given the chance. By throwing convention out of the window and by following an inert belief that biodynamic farming is the way forward, Ewald and his friends’ wines have changed how Styria is perceived.
They are wines of haunting aromas that age more impressively than most white Burgundies. They may be serious, fine wines, but they are in no way rigid or strict. Instead, they emanate good vibes and drinkability; testament to healthy farming and healthy wines. By giving the wines time and by not putting them into tight clothes by over-sulphuring them, he allows them to be true to themselves and to their place.